Well, the best advice I can give you is... don't do this yourself. You need to fully discharge the system before disconnecting any of the refrigerant hoses from any part of your Taurus, and this isn't something the home mechanic is equipped to do.
If your heart's set on doing it... know this. You need a vacuum pump and/or a refrigerant storage tank to capture any refrigerant left in the system, plus you need tools to remove the serpentine belt, the right hand engine cooling fan, the power steering pump return line, and the accumulator-drier (which must also be replaced) in addition to the compressor itself. After discharging the system and unhooking the negative battery cable, you'll need to cap or plug all of the A/C lines to prevent air or moisture from entering the system while the lines are loose. Also, you'll need to carefully remove the electrical connectors for the A/C clutch and pressure cutoff switches (I say "carefully" because given its age, the wires are likely to be more delicate than they look). You need to drain the lubricating oil that's in both the old and new compressors (the new one usually ships with oil to keep its internal parts in good shape while it's sitting in the warehouse), then measure out 9-10 ounces of fresh PAG oil for the new compressor and put it in before installing it. Properly dispose of the old oil, then run clean PAG oil over your new o-rings (and yes, you'll need these for the refrigerant lines, since you can't reuse the old ones) that go between the lines and the compressor. Then you can start putting the %^&*ing thing back together again.
I conservatively estimate all this will take you about 3-4 hours... in a mechanic's shop with air tools. In your garage at home... good luck with that.
If your heart's set on doing it... know this. You need a vacuum pump and/or a refrigerant storage tank to capture any refrigerant left in the system, plus you need tools to remove the serpentine belt, the right hand engine cooling fan, the power steering pump return line, and the accumulator-drier (which must also be replaced) in addition to the compressor itself. After discharging the system and unhooking the negative battery cable, you'll need to cap or plug all of the A/C lines to prevent air or moisture from entering the system while the lines are loose. Also, you'll need to carefully remove the electrical connectors for the A/C clutch and pressure cutoff switches (I say "carefully" because given its age, the wires are likely to be more delicate than they look). You need to drain the lubricating oil that's in both the old and new compressors (the new one usually ships with oil to keep its internal parts in good shape while it's sitting in the warehouse), then measure out 9-10 ounces of fresh PAG oil for the new compressor and put it in before installing it. Properly dispose of the old oil, then run clean PAG oil over your new o-rings (and yes, you'll need these for the refrigerant lines, since you can't reuse the old ones) that go between the lines and the compressor. Then you can start putting the %^&*ing thing back together again.
I conservatively estimate all this will take you about 3-4 hours... in a mechanic's shop with air tools. In your garage at home... good luck with that.